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© 2008 Johan Frankelius

Johan Frankelius summits Everest

On May 25th 2006 at 7.54 am, Johan Frankelius topped out on Mount Everest (8850 m; 29,035 ft) from the north side via the North Col/Northeast Ridge route. Johan´s group commenced their summit push from Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at 6400 meters (21,000 ft) on the 22nd and arrived at the North Col (Camp 1, 7010 m; 23,000 ft) a few hours later that day. During the following two days the group moved up to Camp 2 and Camp 3, at 7600 (24,930 ft) and 8260 meters (27,100 ft) respectively, via the North Ridge. From High Camp (Camp 3), about half an hour before midnight, the climbing party started to climb the fairly steep rocky path up to the Northeast Ridge proper. Armed with head torches, ice axes and oxygen apparatus adjusted to deliver 2–3 liters of oxygen per minute, they continued to climb upward, along the NE Ridge, toward the summit pyramid. Flashes of lightning were seen in the lower western flanks and valleys of the Everest massif, a sign that the monsoon is nearing the mountain. By the time they had surmounted the notorious Second Step at 8610 meters (28,250 ft), the summit pyramid of Everest revealed itself in full flush of the alpenglow. Continuing up the ridge and pyramid, they all topped out within three and a half hours. In the meantime the sun was rising above Makalu, a lofty pinnacle some 20 kilometers (12 miles) to the southeast.

On the summit Johan Frankelius planted various items such as flags, collected snow in plastic test tubes, and most importantly, with his camera recorded the awesomely impressive mountain scenery, e.g. Kangchenjunga (8586 m; 28,169 ft) to the east, Makalu (8467 m; 27,779 ft) and Barun Valley to the southeast, Lhotse (8501 m, 27,890 ft) to the south, and Cho Oyu (8201 m; 26,906 ft) to the west. Together with other Everest summiteers, Johan spent a total of fifty minutes on the summit, save for the last two or three which he spent alone taking the last shots, before he headed down to Camp 2 and, the next day, ABC, which is situated on the East Rongbuk Glacier, in Tibet. More summit photos will be added to this site.

Johan Frankelius in Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero suit on the summit of Mount Everest circa 8.30 am. Sentinel to Johan, world's 5th highest peak, Makalu (8467 m; 27,779 ft); far right, Barun Valley (in Nepal); left of Millet One Sport boot, 19 kilometers (12 miles) to the east-southeast, Chomo-Lonzo Central (7540 m; 24,738 ft) and just below C-L C, Chomo-Lonzo NW (7199 m; 23,619ft). In the distance, to the left, 120 kilometers (75 miles) to the east-southeast, looms the 3rd highest mountain in the world, Kangchenjunga (8586 m; 28,169 ft). Elbow just blocks off the summit of Jannu, world's 32nd highest peak (7710 m; 25,295 ft), some 8 kilometers (5 miles) to the west of Kangchenjunga. Prayer flags inscribed with mantra have been planted on the summit (bottom left). Part of oxygen mask is visible above Charlet Moser piolet; hose leads into Mammut Extreme 45 L rucksack lain on the summit.
Photo: Mindu Sherpa (with Johan's camera); Canon EF 1:1.8, f=50mm/Fuji Velvia 100.
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Let your dreams out of their cages
Every passion and desire
Let your visions be outrageous
Set your fantasies on fire
Everything will be permitted
There´ll be nothing left to fear
Put back the magic in your body
Your inhibitions disappear

Lyrics (excerpt) by Jim Steinman